Rhum and the Haitian Spirit

By Robert Miller on Thursday, February 1, 2007.
see more topics in:

Le Rhum

Last Saturday morning, the sun shone through my apartment window and fell upon a bookcase where I keep a bottle of Barbancourt Rhum. The bottle is tagged with classic Hispaniola price tags, florescent orange stickers--prices both in Haitian Dollars and in Dominican Pesos, 60 and 350 respectively. Although empty, it is a cherished keepsake reminiscent of better days spent swilling rhum ak koka at the rattan-adorned Oloffson Hotel in Port-au-Prince.

I drew the sun soaked bottle from its shelf and loosed its cap with a crack; sugar had crystallized around the bottle’s rim. The sweet scent that emanated forthwith was deep, velvety vanilla, with coconut and honeysuckle highlights. Even the dregs (even at nine A.M.) of this full-bodied rum enticed my senses.

I share this with you as I’ve recently come upon a wonderful exposé of the Barbancourt legacy in a 2000 issue of Cigar Aficionado. I have reproduced in part its contents below (without permission) and encourage all to visit the full article here. [link]

Barbancourt

"While Barbancourt has as many medals as a Haitian general, perhaps its biggest accolade is that it is--by default, if not "by appointment"--the libation demanded in rituals by the Voodoo spirits, who get famously upset if they don't have their way. (The star on the rum's label is said to be a symbol of a Voodoo god.) Thierry Gardère, the fourth-generation head of the family business, is almost equally as upset at the idea that people would want to drink his rum with mixers. "Some makers don't like people to drink their rum without a mixer­ and I'm not surprised," he sniffs. "[Barbancourt] has a particularity, like a fine Cognac, but you can smell the sugarcane." His disdain for mixing applies to the eight-year-old Five Star as well, although he's prepared to consider the possibility with the four-year-old Three Star."

Barbancourt

The amazing thing is how much cheaper the rum is in Haiti. By the time you find it in the United States, it is over twice as costly. The fifteen year is the smoothest rum I ever had. It is my favorite, although I also enjoy the rums of Venezuela. It is hard to find but there are Haitian companies which make flavored rums as well -coffee, chocolate, coconut, mint, orange, etc.

Barbancourt 8

This rum is quite good, and smooth. It has flavours of caramel and vanilla and the aftertaste has some coffee, creamy toffee and more vanilla. I found this rum to have some bitterness though but should you add a few small drops of water to weaken the bitterness. I should one day buy the 15 year old version, if only it wasn't so expensive.

Rhum Barbancourt

Having developed a taste for Barbancourt while living in Haiti, I have sampled a wide variety of rums on my return...just to see if any could compete. I have gone so far as to try rums that cost twice as much but none could compare to the five star, and certainly not to the fifteen star. Here in Washington DC, we are able to find it several stores. Look around and maybe you will be able to find it as well.

Post new comment

Please solve the math problem above and type in the result. e.g. for 1+1, type 2.
The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.